The ways in which we perceive the world around us vary from person to person, with each eye taking in images that only register to the unique individual, never replicated in the exact same way again. That fact alone makes so much of what we see every day in our collection even more fascinating.
The photographer’s lens is only an attempt to recreate the vision that crosses the artist’s path; perhaps that’s why we’ve developed such an interest in infrared photography, and how it inverts everything we know about normal visual re-creation. Visionaries like Richard Mosse, whose work has ranged in style but gained most popularity for his infrared photography, give us an alternative way of looking at the world.
The art of infrared photography is all in the process. If you’re feeling creatively curious, there’s no better way to explore a new realm than with the unseen elements that define infrared. Read on below for some beginner’s tips.
Infrared Film
Depending on the kind and variety of equipment you have, your options will vary. Creating quality infrared (IR) images is not easy, but you have a few options that can make it slightly easier — or more difficult. If you’re using an SLR, you can purchase infrared film; probably the easiest route to take if you don’t want to make a commitment or any long-term changes to your equipment. From there, it’s a matter of getting the film developed at a lab that has the capability to work with infrared.
Filters
Buying a filter is also an option — but before doing so, make sure that your camera can actually capture IR light. You’ll want to test it by putting it in live view, pointing a remote control at the lens, and pressing some of the buttons. If see a flashing reddish light, then your camera is good to capture IR. Your camera is actually most likely equipped to not capture IR, for the most part; it’s got an infrared blocking filter already built in. It’s kind of like those magic-eye tricks — your eyes aren’t supposed to lose focus like that, but when they do, you get to see secret hidden messages and images because of it.
Once you know if your camera is IR-capable, you can find a circular IR filter, attachable to the front lens. There are slight differences in price and capability, but just because something is more expensive doesn’t mean it’s good for what you’re trying to do. Different filters will give you different renderings of color, so depending on the type of image you’re trying to capture and the amount of light, that will factor into your decision.
When using a filter, you’ll need to remember a couple of things. First, you’ll need to focus your camera before attaching the IR filter to your lens; once the filter goes on, you won’t be able to see anything in your viewfinder. You’ll also need to play around with shutter speed and exposure times, as using a filter will require longer exposure time. A couple of recommendations on filters: Photographylife recommends the the Hoya R72, which is less expensive and more popular with its variety of capabilities, an allure to new IR photographers. Alternatively, LifePixel recommends the Wratten #89B filter, even less expensive than the Hoya, providing adequate visible-light blockage.
Converting your DSLR
This is an option for anyone who has more than one camera, knowing that the camera you’re about to convert will only be able to photograph in IR for the rest of its life. There are major positives to this technique, being that you’ll be able to use your camera the same way that you use it as a non-IR machine. You won’t have to worry about filters, exposure times, and shutter speeds. There are a couple of downsides, though. It’s essentially like jailbreaking your iPhone, in that you give up the right to ever ask Apple for help should you break it or mess something up. You’re taking its life into your hands (your warranty will no longer apply) and you can’t go back and convert to normal settings. To convert your DSLR, send it into a credible IR conversion company; or you can do it yourself, but there’s a much larger room for error. LifePixel is one of the companies you can take your camera to for conversion.
In the field
Natural elements like trees, flowers, grass, cloudless skies, and high sun all function as great texture-filled subjects. You’ll want to make sure that your camera is set so that your images are captured as RAW files, and that your white balance is set to auto. Also be sure to have your ISO set to the lowest sensitivity. All your fixes will take place in processing, but not everything can be fixed afterwards, so shoot with care and steadiness.
Lenses
This form of photography is unique not only visually, but also because it essentially forces you to unlearn everything you thought you knew about photography. A cheaper lens may just as well give you the desired effect. Things to look out for include areas of the image that might vary in color and exposure from the rest of the image, otherwise known as hotspots, and flare. It’s difficult to decipher which lenses will work best, as it’s heavily based on trial and error, but LifePixel has compiled a list of viable options that should be of help.
Processing
There are, yet again, a variety of options here. If you’re digitally processing your photos, Photoshop is your best bet. You can apply auto tone, which will basically do all the work for you. From there, you can create adjustment layers for color balance, play around with camera RAW filters, use channel mixers, and more. The Digital Photography School has some quick and easy tips for processing that are especially of help if you’re a beginner. And for more creative approaches to photography, check out this guide to experimenting with the photographic process!
Explore more amazing infrared photography our specially curated lightbox »
Top image: Rikugien Park, Tokyo, Japan by THEJAB
